Rock samphire: the fennel of the sea

Rock samphire is the habitual name of the seaside krithmon plant. With Mediterranean distribution, is a common thread of the Greek coasts.

Text curation: Christina Emmanouil-Tsamoura

In the summer, close to the sea, on the steep rocks along the coasts, this particularly small and very tender plant grows, with short, smooth and fleshy leaves, like slim spears and silver-green in color. The leaves of rock samphire acquire a slightly acidic and brackish taste and an intense aroma, reminiscing some people in an undefined way of fennel, which is why one of its nicknames is the “fennel of the sea”. You will also come across it as “pickle or asparagus of the sea”.

In today’s era, one can find standardised kritamo in brine from various regions of Greece (Crete, Chios, Tinos, Mani etc.) both in delicatessens and in some supermarkets as well.

Kritamo is slightly boiled (scalded) and consumed as a salad with olive oil, lemon or vinegar. Its leaves are used as a seasoning after being preserved in assertive vinegar. Kritamo is harvested from May to September. It is not widely known, and in the past at the cities at least was quite difficult to procure. At present, however, one can find kritamo in brine in jars from various regions of Greece (Crete, Chios, Mani, etc.) both in delicatessens and in supermarkets.

Rock samphire is used as a seasoning in salads such as Greek and tomato salad, essentially renewing their character. It is an excellent accompaniment to seafood and fish and a great partner to ouzo and other white spirits, especially served as a pickle.

Pickled rock samphire served with olive oil is literally unique. These are tender leaves scalded in a water-vinegar mixture and then preserved in the water-vinegar. Usually, this pickle does not require salt as kritamo sweeps along the saltiness of the sea. In some regions you may also come across it being dished out with a button of garlic.