Folegandros, with natural wealth and its physiognomy intact, embroiders with indelible colors the fabric of your isle experience in Cyclades.
To feel the energy of a place you have to let go. To communicate, to share and then with an open spirit to taste the fruits of the generous Amalthea.
Kyriakos Sachinidis, digital creator, employed in the field of advertising, spends his time between the picturesque village of Slawston in Market Harborough, England and his travels throughout Greece, guiding us to the Folegandros of his heart.
Are we going to Folegandros this year? my partner inquired. It sounded funny to me, as for a great length of time, we were under the impression that Folegandros was the spitting image of Santorini. Something that I generally avoid is mass tourism. I hesitated, but said yes, as the challenges in terms of tourism excite me.
A beautiful song and a lighthouse in Folegandros were to become the reasons why we ended up that year in this mesmerizing isle of the Cyclades. In the cluster, we have been traveling continuously since 2005 only in September and June, when children are still in school and tourism is bearable. We have the luxury and the disposition.
The ancient writer Aratus called it “land made of iron”, because of the roughness of its soil. This is what I was reading in the tourist guide for Folegandros, but I probably fell asleep. Suddenly, the flight attendant woke me up to fasten my seat belt. We were landing in half an hour. Time went by swiftly.
The flight arrived at dawn, after passport control we waited on the carousel with sleepy eyes. Luggage arrived safe (albeit empty – as we tend to fill these with Greek products on our way back home).
We went out. It was a rather hot day!
We took the bus to the port of Piraeus. Fortunately, the harbor is the last stop and we wouldn’t miss it, I thought. We were asleep. And we fell asleep again on the counter when we arrived at the port at 5.00am in the morning.
At 06.30am, when the ticket office opened, we received our tickets, had a quick sip of coffee. We boarded on the ship and we left the empty suitcases , as we were instructed to do. And we fell asleep again. Fortunately, at 10.30am I woke up, as a familiar sound was heard over the loudspeakers:
Next stop: Folegandros
Slowly, the ship made a maneuver and we faced Karavostasi, the small port of Folegandros. We gradually prepare ourselves.
The first image of the port welcomes us to the isle. We had laid eyes on it before, when we paid a visit to other neighboring islands.
Small port, with the classic sign and the locals’ chatter upon vessel´s arrival in order to serve the tourists to Chora. Everyone knows time and ship´s name.
Back In the old days, Rooms to let? Rooms to let then. Nowadays, all of them are booked already.
The van was patiently waiting to transport us to the beautiful rooms. Our first impression; Unique. An amazing country , where no vehicles are allowed. Beautiful, open-minded, welcoming people.
Shortly after the necessary check in procedures and bike rental, we headed to the wonderful beach of Katergos. More alternative, more deserted, without a trace of infrastructure (God made beaches without umbrellas), after an hour’s walk on a fordable path from Ano Meria, we ended up at Paralitsa. Minimum crowd. I’m in the minority anyway. That is actually a good thing.
After a whole day in the sun with lots of water, minimum food, nuts and cheese falling asleep on our towels we took the footpath back.
Our next stop; The church of Panagia and the castle. I had heard so much. It most certainly exceeded my expectations.
The beautiful, photographed, well-known, temple and the winding path that leads you to it are literally from another world. As if it wishes you to touch the divine by climbing up with steady steps.
People were rising for Disi. It’s a small island, anyway. We went up too.
The view takes your breath away. The sunset with Milos and Polyegos on your plate was magnificent. It was also an unclouded day.
The evening continued at the island’s sole wine bar, for a glass of wine and a lively chat with the cheerful owner. We ended up in Chora square. There are no words to describe its beauty, white with squares and many common areas.
Cyclades.
There, we ordered matsata for the first time. I had heard a lot about it. It is pasta produced in Folegandros, made with flour, water and oil, as wide as linguini, served with meat or vegetables granting a special glamor to the island. An amazing culinary note.
At the same time, in the square you watch the entire island go by. I think those, who are on the island (or many anyway) are passing by for a walk. Like a pleasant coterie.
The second day dawned with an amazing view of Chora, some exercise, yogurt with local honey.
At 08.00am we started walking in the alleys.
I had read about souroto cheese. A soft textured, cheesy, creamy layer with a cool, light and subtle spiciness. Made from sheep and goat milk.
Unfortunately, that day, the island’s cheese factory in Petousis was closed, as the gentleman in the grocery store informed us (everyone knows each other), but he very happily supplied me with cheese of his own production (each family on the island makes own souroto cheese ) and he even showed me how to make it. Beautiful images that I will never forget.
And so, the day started wonderfully with our destination to be the Foureira lighthouse (oops, Folegandros I mean). And we walked.
Alas, we took the wrong path.
We turned back, walked and to our regret took the wrong path once more. We finally arrived at Livadaki. Again, no trace of infrastructure and culture. We also took a glimpse of the renowned lighthouse. All went well.
The beach started to get crowded at noon. It exuded relaxation, though – surprisingly (unlike many other islands). In the afternoon, we went to the church of Agioi Anargyroi, where we made mostra with souroto cheese (which the gentleman gave us in the morning) and oil that we had already brought with us.
Gradually, we took our way back. We were thinking about where to go for dinner. The owner of the tenements suggested that we went down to Agali, for fresh fish and admire the bedazzled view from above towards the beach and the rocks. Folegandros was just an inspiration for me. The island waited to be discovered by travellers bearing treasures on every corner.
On the third day, we stopped at Ano Meria. We passed it, anyway, every day, almost. The second largest – in population – settlement. Where the locals live, at the western end of the island, along the main road.
From the 19th century already – mainly farmers had built their houses.
The village consists, as a house, of mostly old farmhouses (“themonies”) with the characteristic “tree houses”, circular buildings to protect the trees (mainly lemon trees) from strong winds. Otherwise, many dry stones and houses.
We were fooling around and stopped for a coffee. I embrace hearty chats and discover authenticity. And I talked to the owner of the cafe. It’s also easy. I am a Greek from England and my partner is a Brit.
After the coffee break, we headed happily towards Serfiotiko beach.
A beautiful small beach with crystal clear waters. Just 30 minutes on a paved path and we were there. I’ve done longer runs for less. The extensive network of trails creates unique experiences for enthusiasts.
The beach was empty until the afternoon – a total of 10 people went down. Nothing. The feel of the island has remained so relaxed with great people , who love to discover and explore. Travelers, not tourists. Always in September.
That’s what I was thinking. Because the next day, in the afternoon, the liner would take us to our next destination.
The island may not have vines, but it has proper and skilled winemakers. And so on our last night, we enjoyed a lovely dinner at the island’s only winery with its own wines.
The fourth and last day found us with a classic morning wake-up, packing, a quick swim at the nearby – relatively – beach, Voreina, and returning to the apartments for the last scent of the island.
The kind owner of the tenements was willing to drop us off at the port at noon. With our bags ready, I turned and gazed one last time at the church of Panagia. Such beauty, such uniqueness. And I was fooling around when I went down to Karavostasi. And, you know, I was unconsciously saying goodbye to points, people.
We arrived at the port in a few minutes. Our purpose was to have a quick lunch at one of the port’s tavernas. A Greek coffee, a portion of kalamari, and some tzatziki. This was the very last scent of Folegandros, the mistress of the Cyclades.
An island with amazing, relaxed people. With such beauty of soul, that they went above and beyond to serve us.
An island with countless, passable paths. Which invite you to walk them to discover the authentic isle of Folegandros.
A cay with majestic beaches. And whoever claims that Folegandros doesn’t acquire lovely beaches, is not at all familiar with the Cycladic island.
Besides, the gastronomy of a place is intertwined with culture. The local products. The cheeses of Folegandros, the wonderful honey, the capers. The unique pasta, matsata. The Greek linguini. The plain flavors of the Cyclades, but so vibrant!
Above all, the island pleasantly surprised me. An island that I thought – wrongly – would be another Santorini gave me the most carefree, unexpected holidays.
Folegandros, the iron lady of the Cyclades, filled me, made me a beautiful person. And I thank the Aspropounda lighthouse, the lighthouse we called around on our second day, for the gift that Folegandros bestowed to us.
Would I visit it again? Without hesitation. Always out of season. Always September. Always the two of us. Always at the lighthouse.
English (UK) 
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