Therasia reveals a different side of Santorini, with Assyrtiko expressing the island’s distinctive terroir in the glass.
From Santorini, Therasia seems almost to have been placed there to be admired from across the water. A short boat ride is enough to change the scenery, while the geological story connecting the two islands remains. Here, the volcanic landscape continues its story through the vineyards, while Assyrtiko takes on a quieter expression, deeply rooted in the character of the place.
In Therasia, the Aegean reveals itself anew
Therasia lies just across from Santorini, and the short boat journey brings you into a distinctly different setting. Manolas sits high along the ridge, with Santorini and the caldera unfolding across the water, while Korfos lies lower down by the sea. Between the small settlements, walking paths and dry-stone walls, the day leaves room for a leisurely walk, a lingering view, a swim and a table by the water. In summer, Therasia reveals itself through these simple moments, allowing the landscape and its own rhythm to take centre stage.
Look a little closer at the slopes and vineyards begin to appear within the dry landscape. Low-trained vines, stone, dry-stone walls and the intense light of the Aegean create the image of a vineyard deeply rooted in the place.
Therasia has its own wine story. Assyrtiko is part of it, carrying into the glass something of the island’s earth, wind and light.
Where volcanic earth shapes the character
In Therasia, the vine belongs to the landscape. Volcanic soil, very low rainfall, strong winds and intense sunshine create the conditions in which the vines have learned to survive and bear fruit. The kouloures, the low-trained vines shaped into characteristic circular forms close to the ground, are perhaps the most recognisable image of this long winemaking tradition.
They catch the eye as you move around the island. Among stone and dry-stone walls, the vines seem entirely at home in their surroundings. Every summer, beneath the strong Cycladic sun and with the wind moving across the slopes, the grapes ripen in an environment that has shaped the character of the wine here for centuries.
Assyrtiko is the grape variety most closely associated with this land. Its high acidity, characteristic mineral character, citrus notes and subtle saline, sea-breeze quality create wines with intensity, freshness and complexity. In the glass, there is something of the landscape you have just left behind: stone, wind, sea and light.
The viticultural history of Santorini and Therasia reaches deep into the past, while the PDO Santorini zone, established in 1971, includes both islands. Today, this tradition continues through winemakers working with the same distinctive terroir and exploring new ways to express its identity.
The journey continues at the table, with a glass of Assyrtiko carrying something of Therasia’s landscape, its earth, wind and light.
When Assyrtiko meets the table
Some wines seem to find their place at the table effortlessly. Assyrtiko is one of them. Its lively acidity, mineral character and distinctive saline, sea-breeze quality make it a natural companion to the flavours of the Aegean, from fresh seafood and fish to salty Greek cheeses.
In Therasia, Assyrtiko feels at home on a summer table with grilled fish, glysteres, razor clams or mussels, seafood pasta and a glass served cool. A little lemon, good olive oil and the saltiness of the sea complete the picture without asking for much more.
Further from the sea, the wine works beautifully with feta, ladotyri, kopanisti or saganaki. Its acidity also brings freshness to richer dishes such as oven-roasted goat or beef fricassee with spinach.
For an Assyrtiko with more time in oak, the pairings become richer and more generous. Smoked fish, pork with orange sauce or dishes with pronounced herbs and spices can sit beautifully alongside it, as the wine’s richer and more complex character responds naturally to more intense flavours.
And when the culinary journey reaches its final stop, Santorini has another wine tradition to offer: its sweet wines, with Vinsanto providing a natural match for traditional Greek desserts such as portokalopita, galaktoboureko and baklava.
The island settles into its own summer rhythm. A glass by the sea, a table filled with the flavours of the Aegean and the summer light slowly shifting above the caldera promise moments with the kind of travelling spirit that belongs to a Greek summer.
Three Assyrtiko wines for the journey ahead
Terrasea, Mikra Thira
The first choice is almost inevitable. TERRASEA is made from Assyrtiko grown exclusively in Therasia, using the traditional kouloura method and with low yields per hectare. In the glass, aromas of chamomile, thyme and oregano meet white-fleshed fruit such as pear and peach. The palate is full and creamy, with pronounced flinty minerality, while its freshness and long finish bring both energy and persistence. The wine has excellent ageing potential and can develop beautifully over five to ten years. An Assyrtiko worth tasting where it is born — and, if a bottle finds its way into your luggage for the journey home, even better.
Santorini, Domaine Sigalas
From Therasia, the journey returns to Santorini with an Assyrtiko that captures one of the island’s most characteristic expressions of the variety. Aromas of stone fruit, particularly peach, and citrus, lemon and lime, meet delicate floral notes and an inviting saline quality. Rich and layered on the palate, it combines vibrant acidity with freshness and a long, persistent finish. A wine with personality and ageing potential of more than seven years, making it as compelling today as it can be several years from now.
(R)ampelia, Hatzidakis Winery
(R)ampelia brings a little more history to the table. One charming story says that its name is connected to a traditional Cycladic female name used by vine growers for their daughters, whom they called “Bella”. The wine is the first label of the new generation of Hatzidakis Winery, creating a clear connection between past and present.
On the palate, floral and herbal notes meet ripe citrus and the characteristic mineral richness of Assyrtiko. Particularly pronounced acidity balances the wine’s generous structure, while the finish is long and subtly saline. A single-vineyard PDO Santorini made from 100% Assyrtiko and fermented with indigenous yeasts, it sees 70% of the wine aged on its lees for 12 months in stainless-steel tanks, while the remaining 30% matures in French oak barrels. A wine that allows the memory of the island to linger a little longer.
Sommelier’s Corner | 7 years alongside the Greek wine landscape
For the past 7 years, Sommelier’s Corner has explored Greece’s vineyards, grape varieties, the people behind them and the stories that shape its wine culture. We also create editorial content for wineries, capturing the character and identity behind each label.
